Here are some tips on do-it-yourself mold maintenance. If you have a problem you always have the option to send the mold back for repairs. Normally any repairs or defects are covered by warranty.
Block Alignment It is very common for the pins to need to be adjusted after the first casting session or two. If the bullets are out-of-round chances are the alignment has loosened. Either an arbor press or a hammer and punch can be used to push the pins. First, inspect the mating surfaces of the block and remove any specs of lead that may prevent the blocks from closing completely. Second, with the sprue plate open, push the two halves tightly together and then test each end by trying to wiggle the halves. If any play can be felt then that end is loose. Now, try to push or tap the pin so that it protrudes just a couple of thousands more. The trick is that it usually takes a lot of force to move the pin yet you only want to move it a couple of thousands at a time. Tap it once, repeat the wiggle test to see if it is tight, if not, tap it once more, test it again, and so on. What you don’t want to do is push the pin too far, because then the blocks won’t close completely and a special form-fitting punch is needed to drive the pins back in without damaging them.
Sprue Plate Lubrication Aluminum blocks may appreciate a little lube around the sprue plate hinge. I like to use pencil lead. Bullet lube can also be used but tends to find its way into the cavities.
Sprue Plate Spring Washer During the first casting session the spring washer will take a set and the preload will need to be adjusted. Only tighten the nut enough to keep the sprue plate from flopping around.
Sprue Plate Locknut The locknut is all-metal and can lose its grip if it is removed several times. Sometimes the grip can be restored by squeezing the nut in a vise to make it ever-so-slightly egg shaped. The trick is not to overdo it.