- Make cast bullets with a soft pure lead nose and a hard lead alloy base.
- No extra charge.
— choose a nose length that is at least as long as the bullet diameter, because the longer the softnose, the easier it is to handle with gloves on.
— lubrisizers may tend to bump up the softnose, even with a fitted punch, so push-thru sizing may be needed, especially with rifle bullets.
- Cast a batch of pure lead noses (hint: fill both cavities to help keep the mold warm).
- Then warm up a pot of a hard alloy (i.e., 50% lino – 50% ww) to 900 – 950°F.
- Cast bullets with the hard alloy until the mold is up to temp (hint: always fill both cavities to help keep the mold warm).
- Place a soft nose in the normal cavity. This can frustrate you when you have leather gloves on.
- Close the blocks gently. To seat the softnose, it sometimes helps at this point to set the blocks down on the table and push the soft nose down into the cavity with a wooden dowel while squeezing the blocks gently.
- Squeeze the blocks tightly and rap the handle (not the mold) to help close the blocks completely.
- Pour the hard alloy into the normal cavity, on top of the soft nose. Pour into the nose cavity, also, to help keep the mold warm.
- The hard alloy should fuse to the softnose.
- Inspect the bullets for good fusion and straight noses. Short, pointy noses like this one are the hardest to seat straight. This fellow goes back in the pot.
- This is a time-consuming process, but if you only use them for big game hunting, 50 bullets will last for several years.